Racerback Bra-lette Crochet Pattern

Crochet Bra

Free Crochet Bra Pattern

This has been a project on my crafty bucket list for quite some time.  I don’t know why, but there just seems something so badass about being able to crochet your own bra.  Maybe it’s my need to be prepared….for everything…..but this skill feels extra exciting!  Cute, comfy, hand-made undergarments??  Yes please!  One of my testers mentioned that she loves how this bra offers just enough support for home/night time wear, but not so much that it feels constricting.  I agree!

This free crochet bra pattern features worsted (4) weight yarn and size 6.0mm (J) crochet hook. Pattern is written in a tutorial style to accommodate any/every bust and rib cage size.

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Crocheted Bra

Bra Crochet Pattern

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Racerback Bra-lette Crochet Pattern

This pattern is written in a tutorial style so you can use any rib cage or bust measurements.

Materials

  • Yarn: Approximately 175 yards of worsted (4) yarn for smallest size and approx. 350 yards for largest sizes (I used Berroco Comfort)
  • Crochet Hook: Size 5.5 mm (I/9) OR whatever size is needed to obtain gauge
  • Yarn or Tapestry Needle
  • (optional) ½” elastic in the length designated for your size
  • (optional) Sewing needle and thread

Gauge

7 sts and 5 rows = 2 inches (5 centimeters) in half double crochet

***It is important to check your gauge!***

Abbreviations

  • SC:  Single Crochet
  • DC:  Double Crochet
  • HDC: Half Double Crochet
  • HDC2tog: Half Double Crochet the next 2 sts together
  • **: Repeat the section in between the two stars as specified

How to Measure

  1.  Measure around the rib cage, just below the breasts, to determine your band size.
  2. Loosely measure around the fullest part of your breast.
  3. Subtract the band measurement from the bust measurement in order to determine your cup size below:

1” = A = Add 2 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 1 row

2” = B = Add 4 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 1 row

3” = C = Add 4 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 2 rows

4” = D = Add 8 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 2 rows

5” = DD = Add 8 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 2 rows

6” = DDD & F = Add 12 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 2 rows

7” = G = Add 12 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 3 rows

8” = H = Add 16 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 4 rows

9” = I = Add 16 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 4 rows

10” = J = Add 16 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 4 rows

11” = K = Add 20 extra stitches to each cup section / decrease over 5 rows

 

Figuring out your starting chain count:

 Multiply the band size you chose or measured following the instructions above by 3.5 to determine the total number of stitches you’ll need to create the appropriate size.

Y (band size) x 3.5 = Total number of sts needed to create the correct band size (Z)

  • Example: 32” band would look like this:
  • 32 x 3.5 = 112 total sts needed for the correct 32” circumference

Now divide the total number of sts determined in the equation above (Z) in half.

Z (total # of sts needed) / 2 = Total number of sts needed to start the back portion

  • Example: 112 total sts needed to create my 32” circumference / 2 = 56 sts needed to start back

Getting Started:

 Now that you’ve figured out the number of sts needed to get started, you’ll need to add 2 to that number to get the correct starting chain count.

  • Example: 56 sts needed to start the back of my 32” band.
  • 56 + 2 = 58 total chains needed to start my project.

Pattern instructions:

Create a starting chain using the count you figured out above.

Row 1 (right side): HDC into the third chain from hook and each chain across row, CH2, turn work

Row 2: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 3: Repeat Row 2

Row 4: HDC into each stitch across row, CH1, turn work

Row 5: SC into each stitch across row, CH1, turn work

Row 6: SC into each stitch across row

Fasten off.  Turn work.

At this point, you’ll stop working the outer sts and only work the center 22 sts.  In order to figure out how many stitches to skip before re-connecting your yarn, deduct 22 from the total number of back sts you’re working.

  • Example: I have 56 sts on my 32” band back portion.
  • 56 – 22 = 34 total outer sts

Now, in order to put the 22 stitches we’ll be working into the center of the back, you’ll have to divide the total number of outer sts by 2.  This will tell you how many sts to skip before re-connecting your yarn, and working the center 22 sts.

  • Example: I have 34 total outer sts for my 32” band
  • 34 / 2 = 17 sts need to be skipped on each side in order for my 22 stitch halter back portion to be centered.

Row 7 (right side): Skip the number of sts you just figured above, reconnect a new strand of yarn to the last outer stitch, CH2, and begin the middle back portion following this pattern over the center 22 sts:

HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 18 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (20 total sts)

Row 8: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 9: HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 16 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (18 total sts)

Row 10: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 11: HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 14 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (16 total sts)

Row 12: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 13: HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 12 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (14 total sts)

Row 14: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 15: HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 10 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (12 total sts)

Row 16: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 17: HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 8 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (10 total sts)

Row 18: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 19: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 20: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 21: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 8 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (12 total sts)

Row 22: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 23: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 10 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (14 total sts)

Row 24: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 25: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 12 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (16 total sts)

Row 26: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 27: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 14 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (18 total sts)

Row 28: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 29: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 16 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (20 total sts)

Row 30: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 31: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 18 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (22 total sts)

Row 32: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

At this point you’ll be starting to work on one of the two strap sections by working only 5 sts.

Row 33 (right side): 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 2 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (5 total sts)

Row 34: (wrong side): HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 2 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (5 total sts)

Repeat Rows 33 & 34 until your strap measures approx. 6 inches (15.25cm) in length from the start of the repeat section.  Note how many repeats so you can match on the other side.  This is the section to add or subtract length if you feel like the bralette is either too tall or too short.  You should be able to get a good idea of fit (and be able to rip back for any changes if necessary) once you complete one cup.

Start of Cup Section

Row 35 (right side): 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 3 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work

(7 total sts)

Row 36: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 37: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 5 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (9 total sts)

Row 38: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 39: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 7 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (11 total sts)

Row 40: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 41: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 9 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (13 total sts)

Row 42: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 43: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 5 sts, 3 HDC in next stitch, HDC each of next 5 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (17 total sts)

Row 44: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 45: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 7 sts, 3 HDC in next stitch, HDC each of next 7 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (21 total sts)

Row 46: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 47: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of next 9 sts, 3 HDC in next stitch, HDC each of next 9 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (25 total sts)

Row 48: HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Continue to repeat pattern below until you’ve reached a number equivalent to half of your total back sts.

  • Example: I started with 56 total sts on the back of my 32” band.
  • 56 / 2 = 28 sts makes up half of my total back sts.

Repeat pattern:

Row 1 (right side): 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in each stitch to center stitch, 3 HDC in center stitch, HDC in each stitch to last stitch, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (+4 additional total sts)

Row 2: (wrong side): HDC each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Now you’ll need to determine how many additional repeats and stitches to add based upon the cup size you’re making.  Refer back to the list of cup sizes on page 2 to determine how many additional stitches you’ll need to add to each cup in order to create the right fit.

Continue to repeat the pattern above until you’ve added on the correct number of additional sts to this cup (or come as close as possible – each repeat increases the count by 4 total sts.  If making size A cup, skip the additional sts in the center in order to only add 2 sts).

Once you’ve finished adding additional stitches in order to increase cup size, you’ll need to work a section of decreases for under the breast.  This will take us back to the appropriate number of stitches for the band.

Refer back to the cup size you’re working on Page 2 in order to determine how many rows you’ll want to decrease the extra stitches you added into this cup over.

  • Example: For my 32” band, and a C cup, I added in 4 additional sts.  That means I now need to decrease by 4 sts to get back to my appropriate band size.  Page 2 instructs me to decrease these 4 sts over 2 rows.

In order to determine how many sts you’ll decrease on each row, take the total number of additional sts you added to this cup, and divide it by how many rows you need to decrease over.

  • Example: 4 extra sts in my C cup / 2 rows to decrease = 2 sts need to be decreased on each row.

I prefer to decrease evenly across my entire row, but you can choose to either spread your decreases out evenly across your rows, or decrease at both the beginning and end of your rows.

  • Example: I have 32 total sts in my cup at this time.  I need to decrease by 4 total sts over 2 rows.  In order to spread my decreases across my row evenly, I’ll follow this pattern for 2 rows:

Decrease Row 1: HDC each of the next 8 sts, HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 12 sts, HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 8 sts, CH2, turn work (30 total sts)

Decrease Row 2: HDC each of the next 7 sts, HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 12 sts, HDC2tog, HDC each of the next 7 sts, Fasten off.

When you’ve completed your decrease rows, complete one additional row (if necessary) so the last row completed is with wrong side facing, fasten off.  You’ve finished the first cup.

Return to the top of your halter back portion in order to start the second strap and cup.

At this point you’ll be starting to work on the second strap section by working only 5 sts on the outer edge.  With right side facing you, connect new strand of yarn to 6th stitch in, and follow instructions below:

Row 1 (right side): HDC2tog, HDC each of next 2 sts, 2 HDC in last stitch, CH2, turn work (5 total sts)

Row 2: (wrong side): 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC each of the next 2 sts, HDC2tog, CH2, turn work (5 total sts)

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until your strap measures approx. 6 inches (15.25cm) in length from the start of the repeat section.  Make sure to complete the same number of repeats that you completed on the opposite side.

Next, refer back to “Start of Cup” section and complete all pattern instructions until your second cup is finished.  Finish with wrong side facing.  Do not fasten off.  Instead CH2, and turn work

HDC into each stitch across the bottom of the second cup you completed.  Now make sure your project lays flat with no twists, and continue to HDC across the bottom of the first cup you completed to connect the two, CH1, turn work

Continue by following pattern below:

Row 1: SC into each stitch across row, CH1, turn work

Row 2: SC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Row 3: HDC into each stitch across row, CH2, turn work

Rows 4-6: Repeat Row 3.  Fasten off on final repeat.

Place right sides of your project together and seam the bottom band section.  Then seam the outer edge of the two decrease rows down to your band as well in order to pull and secure them into the correct position.

Secure and weave in all ends.

I chose to add 2 sts to the front of my V in order to create more coverage.  You can add as many or as few sts there as you’d like to create the desired look.  From there, add a SC edging around your project.

Secure and weave in all ends.

(Optional): For a better fit, add an elastic band (1/2” elastic) to the bottom of your bralette.  Cut the elastic in the same length as your band.  Sew the ends together using needle and thread.  Then place this piece of elastic into the bottom of your band, and fold the bottom up and over the elastic.  Use either your yarn and tapestry needle to seam in the elastic, or do a SC seam along the inside edge to secure the elastic in place.

 

 

This design, a written work and images are a copyright of
©MelodysMakings and may not be copied or reproduced in any way.

You have permission to sell finished products made from this pattern, but please leave a link to my website, www.melodys-makings.com, in your product listing specifying that I am the designer of this pattern.  Thank you for supporting me as a work at home mother!

Support paired with comfort....and a little bit of hand-made!  This free crochet bra pattern features a racerback style and can be used for any size.

8 Comments On “Racerback Bra-lette Crochet Pattern”

  1. Am I seeing correctly that the band is one piece? There is no opening to allow easier ingress/egress? I’m all for handmade, even more in support of natural fibers, but am no longer as, well, flexible as I once was, and prefer things that have openings that close within reach of my front. I have mostly given up commercially available sports bras (bye-bye mostly-cotton!) because they’re rather difficult to put on, especially in warm weather or just after a shower; most commercial regular bras don’t even use partly-cotton fabric, so I’m looking hard for handmade alternatives. Thanks!

    Reply

  2. It certainly peaks my interest, so YES, I will give it a whirl.
    Not for me but my younger cohorts around me.

    Reply

  3. Would cotton work well or will it be less likely to retain it’s shape after washings and multiple wearings?

    Reply

  4. You are truly amazing! Thanks for all you do!

    Reply

  5. I’m definitely going to try this! However, as a plus size older woman with mobility issues, it would be nice to offer a modification to allow hooks in the front. Do you think that would be difficult?

    Thanks though, this is fantastic!

    Reply

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