Crochet Baby Romper Pattern

lace crochet baby romper

Crochet Baby Romper Pattern

This gorgeous crochet baby romper was featured as a free pattern on The Crochet Crowd blog a while back.  There were a couple of website technical difficulties though, and the post has been removed.  I’ve had a few people ask where the pattern went and I want to make sure you all still have access.

These unique tutorial style patterns are SO awesome for learning more of the “why” behind what you’re doing and for using with multiple projects – however, that means they also include a lot of info!

You’ll not only learn how to make this gorgeous chevron lace baby romper crochet pattern, but you’ll add some new skills to your crochet tool box at the same time.

I hope you all enjoy this gorgeous lacy pattern, and spoil some summer babies with rompers this year <3

If you have friends that you think would like to receive this FREE pattern, then please share the link to this post!  Your support is what keeps me working at home with my little guy.

Chevron Lace Baby Romper Crochet Pattern

Materials:

Yarn: You can use any weight of yarn you would like for this tutorial.  You will need approx. 120 yards of worsted (4) weight yarn for the smallest size romper.  If you are using a thinner yarn, you will need more yardage, and a thicker yarn will need less yardage.  I have included a chart below for you to fill in with approx. yardage requirements after making sets with different yarn weights.

Yarn Yardage Chart:

Yarn Weight Yarn Type (US) Smaller Sizes Larger Sizes
0 or Lace Thread or Lace ­__________ __________
1 or Superfine Fingering __________ __________
2 or Fine Sport __________ __________
3 or Light DK __________ __________
4 or Medium Worsted 140 yards 300 yards
5 or Bulky Bulky __________ __________
6 or Super Bulky Super Bulky __________ __________

Crochet Hook: Use a corresponding hook size to the size of yarn you choose to use. 

Reference the “Yarn Weight Conversion and Suggested Hook Sizes Chart” on my website to figure out which size hook you should use based on the yarn weight you’ve selected.

● Yarn or Tapestry Needle

● Measuring Tape

Gauge:

Gauge is the first step to being able to work up a design for the correct size/age range without using a very specific pattern.  Using the yarn and corresponding hook size that you have chosen above, work up an approx. 4 inch (10.25cm) by 4 inch single crochet stitch swatch.

Once you have worked up this swatch, measure how many stitches are in 2 inches (5 cm) and how many rows are in 2 inches. 

Once you have your measurements, plug them into the following equations:

  • # of stitches over 2 inches (5cm) divided by 2 = number of stitches per inch (2.54cm).
  • # of rows over 2 inches (5cm) divided by 2 = number of rows per inch (2.54cm).

For easy reference, record these numbers on the chart located at the bottom of this post, under [Figure A].

Once you have your number of stitches and rows per inch, you need to decide on what size of project you are making.  This tutorial is perfect for cowls or infinity scarves as well as rompers.  I have included a size chart for cowls and infinity scarves as well as each romper size from Newborn through 1-2 Years below:

Size Charts:

Cowl Length:  Cowls generally have a circumference slightly larger (1-2 inches) than the head circumference of the person you are making them for.  An Adult Woman has an average head circumference of 21.5-22.5” (54.75-57cm) so the cowl circumference should measure approx. 22.5-23.5” (57-59.75cm) in circumference.  The length of the cowl is up to you, but most people prefer big, thick cowls.  With this design you’ll need to make a little extra length if you plan to wear it as a winter cowl.  For a thicker cowl, I would recommend at least 24” (70cm) in length

Infinity Scarf:  Infinity scarves are generally much longer and have more drape than cowls.  If you prefer just one wrap of your scarf, then I would recommend an approx. 40” (101.5cm) circumference.  If you prefer a double wrap I would recommend at least 65” (165cm) in circumference.  The length of your scarf also depends on if you are doing a single or double wrap.  If you prefer a single wrap, then an approx. 8” (20.5cm) length is a nice length.  If you prefer double wrap, an approx. 6” (15.25cm) is a nice length.

  Size Average Chest Circumference Approx. Length
Newborn 12-13″ (30.5-33cm) 11″ (28cm)
0-3 Months 13-14″ (33-35.5cm) 11.5″ (29.25cm)
3-6 Months 15-16” (38-40.5cm) 13″ (33cm)
6-12 Months 16-17″ (40.5-43cm) 14.25″ (36.25cm)
1-2 Years 17-18″ (40.5-45.75cm) 15.75″ (40cm)

Abbreviations:

  • CH: Chain
  • TW: Turn Work
  • SC: Single Crochet
  • HDC: Half Double Crochet
  • DC: Double Crochet
  • TR: Treble Crochet
  • DC2tog: Double Crochet the next 2 sts together (Double Crochet Decrease)
Chevron Lace Stitch Chart in the Round
Chevron Lace Romper Crochet Pattern Stitch Chart

To Begin Your Project….

In order to begin your project, you need to figure out the width of one 16 stitch block of pattern.

            The pattern follows the chart above.

I used worsted (4) weight yarn and a size 5.5mm (I-9) Hook along with a gauge of:

            8 sts and 8 rows = 2 inches (5cm) in Single Crochet.

The chart shown above is the beginning of a Newborn sized romper in this pattern with that gauge.

To figure out how many chains to start with, work up the following pattern:

Chain 17

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook,   SC into each chain across,   CH3, TW

Row 2: DC2tog (Double Crochet Decrease) using first two sts,   DC2tog,   CH1, skip one stitch,   and DC into next stitch,   CH1, skip one stitch, (DC, CH3, DC) into next stitch,   [CH1,   skip one stitch,   and DC into next stitch] two times, DC2tog, DC2tog (17 sts including turning chain)

After working up these first two rows, measure the width of your project across row 2.

Use the size charts listed above and plug that number into the following equation:

Desired Circumference of Your Project divided by width of the above block = Number of Blocks Needed To Make Your Project

See Example Below

Example:

My 16 stitch block measured 4 inches (10.25cm).  After referencing the size chart above, I knew that in order to make a Newborn sized romper, I needed the circumference of my project to equal 13 inches.

My equation was as follows:

13 inches (25.5cm) / 4 inches (10.25cm) = 3.25 blocks needed to be the appropriate size

For this pattern, we cannot work in ½ blocks.  The number of stitches we are working with (not including the turning chain) MUST be divisible by 16.  It is always safest to round your number of blocks needed up to ensure a good fit.  I rounded up to 4 blocks needed.

For easy reference, record this number under [Figure B] on the chart included on page 9.

Your Next Step:

Now that you know how many blocks you need to achieve the proper size for your project, you need to find the starting number of chains.

            Use this equation to find that number:

(Number of blocks needed multiplied by 16) = starting number of chains

Example:

In my example, I know I need four blocks, so I follow the below equation:

                        (4×16) = 64 starting chains

For easy reference, record this number under [Figure C] on the chart included on page 9.

Now Start Your Project…

Now it’s time to start your project! If you are comfortable following graphs, then use the graph listed on the last page to work up the first half of your project.

**This project is worked in continuous rounds.  Use a stitch marker.**

If you prefer text instructions, then follow the instructions below:

Chain 64 sts (or however many you came up with using the above equations)

Join in the round by slip stitching the first and last chains together

Round 1: SC into each stitch around.  Place marker in last stitch and move up each round. (64 sts in my example)

*Note: Always work into space created by chain – not the chain itself unless otherwise stated*

Round 2: [DC into first stitch,   CH1,   skip one stitch] two times, *(DC, CH3, DC) into next stitch   CH1, skip one stitch,   [DC into next stitch,   CH1,   skip one stitch] two times,  DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,   CH1,   skip one stitch,   [DC into next stitch,   CH1,   skip one stitch] two times*   Repeat from *to* to the last 12 un-worked stitches,   (DC, CH3, DC) into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch,   [DC into next stitch,   CH1,   skip one stitch] two times,  DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,   CH1,   skip one stitch (64 total sts [or however many you chained] including turning chain)

            *Note: Each peak or shell type stitch should be in the middle of the CH3 in the previous row.  Each valley or DC2tog with 3 sts between should be worked over the bottom 3 sts in the valley.  Keep this in mind as you are working so it will be easier to master the design*

Round 3: Slip stitch into first stitch,   *[DC into the next ch1 space, DC into next stitch] two times,   (DC,  DC,  CH3,  DC, DC) into next ch3 space,   [DC into the next stitch, DC into next ch1 space] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,*   Repeat from *to* using the first stitch from round 3 as the second decrease stitch in the last repeat)

Round 4: CH1, skip the next st, [DC into next st,  CH1,  skip one stitch] two times, *(DC, CH3, DC)  in next ch3 space, CH1,  skip one st, DC into next stitch (this will be the first DC after the Ch3 space),  CH1,  skip one stitch,  DC in next st,  CH1,  skip one stitch,  DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,  CH1, skip one stitch,  [DC in next st,  CH1,  skip one stitch] two times* Repeat from  *to* to the last 12 un-worked stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) in next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch, [DC into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts, (use the first DC from round 4 as the second decrease stitch),  CH1,   skip one stitch.

Round 5: *[DC into the next ch1 space, DC into next stitch] two times,   (DC,  DC,  CH3,  DC, DC) into next ch3 space,   [DC into the stitch, DC into next ch1 space] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,*   Repeat from *to* using the first stitch from round 3 as the second decrease stitch in the last repeat)

If you are making a cowl or infinity scarf, continue to repeat rounds 4&5 until your project measures the desired length.  End on a repeat of round 5, cut yarn and secure and weave in all ends.

            If you are working up a romper, refer to the chart below to find the length to crochet in chevron lace to.

Newborn:  Chevron Lace to approx. 6.75” (17.25cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 10” (25.5cm)

0-3 Months: Chevron Lace to approx. 7.25” (18.5cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 11” (27.94cm)

3-6 Months: Chevron Lace to approx. 8.75” (22.25cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 12.5” (31.75cm)

6-12 Months: Chevron Lace to approx. 10” (25.5cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 13.75” (35cm)

1-2 Years: Chevron Lace to approx. 11.5” (29.21cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 15.25” (38.75cm)

Continue repeating rounds 4 & 5 until your piece measures the approx. length listed above for the Chevron Lace.  End on a repeat of round 4. Then complete the following round before switching to Single Crochet.

Round 6: HDC into first two sts,   SC into next two sts,  *Slip stitch into next 5 sts (the chain sts),  SC into next two sts,  HDC into next two sts,   DC into next stitch,   TRC into next stitch,   DC into next stitch,   HDC into next two sts,   SC into next two sts*   Repeat from *to* to the last 12 un-worked stitches, and Slip stitch into next 5 sts,   SC into next two sts,   HDC into next two sts,   DC into next stitch,   TRC into next stitch,   DC into last stitch (64 total sts or however many you chained)

Round 7: Loosely Single Crochet around OR go up one hook size to ensure loose sts

            Continue to Loosely Single Crochet each round until your piece measures the approx. length listed above.

            When you’ve reached the length listed above, SC around until you’ve reached the front of your project and mark that stitch (the front should be marked by the valley between two ridges).  Divide your starting number of chains by 2 (for my example, I would have 32 sts because I started with 64 chains) and SC that many times around (including the front stitch).  At this point, slip stitch into the stitch marked as the front of your project and SC each stitch around this section for approx. .5 inch (1.25cm) or however long you prefer your romper legs to be.

            Move to the second leg and do the same.

            Cut yarn and secure and weave in all ends.  If necessary, use your yarn or tapestry needle to sew up and close the small hole in the crotch section.

            Add ties to your project by connecting your yarn at the top of two peaks and chaining to whatever length you prefer your ties to be.  I made mine approx. 12” (30.5cm) each in length for a Newborn romper.  Cut, secure, and weave in all ends.

[Figure A]

# of stitches per inch using a ______________________ weight yarn and a size _________ hook = _____________

# of rows per inch using a ______________________ weight yarn and a size _________ hook = _____________

[Figure B]

# of 16 stitch blocks needed to make _______________ size project using Figure A’s gauge = ______________

[Figure C]

# of starting chains for the above gauge, and size project = _________________

This design, a written work and images are a copyright of
©MelodysMakings and may not be copied or reproduced in any way. You have permission to sell finished products made from this pattern, but please leave a link to my website, www.melodys-makings.com, in your product listing specifying that I am the designer of this pattern.  Thank you for supporting me as a work at home mother!

33 Comments On “Crochet Baby Romper Pattern”

  1. I have been trying to get the pattern for this romper for 3 days now… It doesn’t work!

    Reply

    • Hey Jenee! I’m sorry for the problems! I just checked my list and it looks like your name was successfully signed up this morning. You should have received an e-mail within about an hour of signing up with the patterns attached. If you didn’t receive that e-mail, then you might try checking your spam folder so the future newsletters don’t get lost as well. In the mean time, I’ll send you the patterns manually right now 🙂

      Reply

  2. Deborah J Austin

    Can’t wait to get my pattern ….This is adorable

    Reply

  3. Thank you so much for offering this pattern to us free. Looking forward to getting started on it

    Reply

  4. waiting for the pattern

    Reply

  5. I never received my pattern either. It’s been a few days.

    Reply

  6. I haven’t been able to get this free pattern either. I am already signed up for your emails. I don’t remember seeing the pattern in any of my emails. Is there a way I can get this pattern please? Thank you!

    Reply

  7. I never received my free patterns for signing up and it won’t let me try again.

    Reply

  8. i signed a couple of days ago and get a email back, but i cant find the pattern?

    Reply

  9. Pingback: #FlashbackFriday Crochet Link Blast: Week 10: Baby Blankets & Layettes | Underground Crafter

  10. Is this free pattern still available? thanks.

    Reply

    • It is, Jill. I’ve been having some issues with my site today, though, so it’s not linking correctly. I’ll be getting it fixed as soon as possible, so check back soon.

      Reply

  11. Virginia Hernandez

    Im not able to download this gorgeous pattern for some reason, it says ‘not found’ and theres a search option. I had downloaded it once before when i was pregnant but then my cell caught a virus so i had to replace it. Nothing was backed up so i havent been able to make this sweet little romper for my little Victoria,please help? Thank you so much, im a long time fan of your designs (^_^)

    Reply

  12. l can’t get this pattern, been trying but nothing. 🙁
    Jane.

    Reply

    • I’ve had some issues with the site as it switched over to a new host yesterday morning. It’s on my to-do list for today to fix all the broken links, including this one. Sorry for the inconvenience! I appreciate your patience.

      Reply

  13. Melody I love your crochet projects. You are so talented. You are also an awesome mom for putting your children first. Thank you so much for sharing your talent with us. I very much appreciate it. You have a true art. I am looking forward to new projects.

    Reply

  14. Thank you got the romper Pattern. Melody. I can’t wait crochet it.
    Lucy

    Reply

  15. I’ve tried to download this a couple times and it keeps saying the file cannot be opened.

    Reply

    • Hi Rachelle! I just checked the link, and it’s working. Could you possible try from a different browser? Sometimes those have an affect on things.

      Reply

  16. hello! I absolutely love this romper but I keep getting stuck on row 4. Is the second half of the last sc2tog of row three in the slip stich or the first double crochet? When I use the first double crochet I end up having a skipped chain right before and right after the chain three space. Which seems fine until I reach the dc2tog, the double crochet/ch1/skip doesn’t seem to work, I end up trying to do those stitches in the next chain three spot. Hopefully that all makes sense haha. Do you know what I could possibly be doing wrong? Or are the empty stitches before and after the chain three space not right?

    Reply

    • Hey Kate! So sorry for the confusion! In my patterns, the first stitch is always considered the same one you slip stitched into 🙂

      Reply

  17. I can’t get the pattern what am I doing wrong

    Reply

  18. Wanted the baby romper to crochet didn’t doesn’t download. Got the email to get two free gifts found the romper and gives instructions for a ladies scarf. Really liked that.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *