Jennika Cabled Crochet Mittens Pattern

 

Crochet Mittens

Jennika Crochet Mittens Pattern

I’m a big fan of quick and easy patterns, especially when they include pretty cables!  This free cabled crochet mittens pattern fits that bill perfectly.

Made using aran (4) weight yarn, they’re a quick project to work up and have a touch of simple beauty with the pretty cables they feature on top.

This free mittens crochet pattern accompanies the infinity wrap and hat in my Jennika collection.

Jennika Mittens Crochet Pattern

Please Share!

1. Head over to Ravelry, add the Jennika crochet mittens to your favorites and queue the pattern listing. This is a great way to help designers connect with new customers, and we always super appreciate you taking that extra moment!

You’ll find the Ravelry listing here.

2. Share this blog post with your crafty friends. Please use the handy social sharing buttons at the bottom of this post so your crafty friends can take advantage of this free pattern too.

3.  Scroll down to view the pattern OR if you’d like an ad-free PDF copy of this pattern (or to add the pattern to your Rav. library), simply input your email address into this form and I’ll email one over:

 

Not a fan of ads?

No worries!  Help support the blog, and snag an ad-free PDF copy of this pattern for just $2.99!

You’ll find this crochet mittens pattern available on Etsy here.

You’ll find this crochet mittens pattern available on Ravelry here.

crochet mittens

Jennika Mittens Crochet Pattern

Crochet Mittens Size Chart

Toddler 1-3 Years

Hand Circumference: 5.5” (14cm)

Total Length:  7.25” (18.5cm)

Child 3-10 Years

Hand Circumference: 6.5” (16.5cm)

Total Length:  9” (22.75cm)

Teen/Adult Small
Hand Circumference: 7.5” (19cm)

Total Length:  9.25” (23.5cm)

Adult Medium

Hand Circumference: 8” (20.25cm)

Total Length:  10.5” (26.5cm)

Adult Large

Hand Circumference: 8.5” (21.5cm)

Total Length:  11” (28cm)

Materials

  • Yarn: Approximately 75-200 yards of Worsted (4) yarn

**Yarn requirements are estimates only**

(I used Jupiter Moon Farm’s Cumulus for mine.)

  • Crochet Hook: Size 5.5mm (I/9) OR whatever size is needed to achieve gauge
  • Crochet hook one size smaller than the one you used to achieve gauge
  • Yarn or Tapestry Needle

Gauge

7 sts and 8 rows = 2 inches (5 centimeters) in Single Crochet

***It is important to check your gauge!***

Abbreviations

  • CH: Chain
  • SC: Single Crochet
  • HDC: Half Double Crochet
  • FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
  • FPTRC: Front Post Triple Crochet
  • C4F Cable Sequence: Cable 4 Front: Skip the next 2 sts, FPDC around each of the next 2 sts, moving your hook in front of your work, return to the first of the 2 sts you just skipped, and FPDC each of those 2 sts.
  • C4B Cable Sequence: Cable 4 Back: Skip the next 2 sts, FPDC around each of the next 2 sts, moving your hook behind your work, return to the first of the 2 sts you just skipped, and FPDC each of those 2 sts.
  • **: Repeat the section in between the two stars as specified

**This pattern is written in US terms**

 

Toddler 1-3 Year Pattern

Left Mitten

Chain 23 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (22 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.5cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (22 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 2nd SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 14 sts, CH1, turn work (22 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 14 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 3 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 15 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 3 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 15 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 14 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 14 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 3 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 15 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 3 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 15 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 3 sts

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  .75” (1.9cm) above the top of the ribbing, leave a 1 inch (2.5cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 22 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (22 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat 5 more times, SC each of the next 4 sts (16 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog* Repeat around (8 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 6 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (6 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx .75 inches (1.9cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (3 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Right Mitten

Chain 23 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (22 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.5cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (22 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 14 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 13th SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, CH1, turn work (22 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 14 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 15 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 3 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 15 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 3 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 14 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 14 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 15 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 3 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 15 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 3 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 15 sts

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  .75” (1.9cm) above the top of the ribbing, leave a 1 inch (2.5cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 22 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (22 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat 5 more times, SC each of the next 4 sts (16 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog* Repeat around (8 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 6 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (6 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx .75 inches (1.9cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (3 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Child 3-10 Year Pattern

Left Mitten

Chain 25 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (24 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.5 inches (6.25cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (24 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 3 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 2nd SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work (24 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 15 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 4 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 16 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 4 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 16 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 3 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 15 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 4 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 16 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 4 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 16 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Rows 21-23: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.25 inch (3cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 24 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (24 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around (18 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat around (12 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog* Repeat around (6 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 8 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (8 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 1.5 inches (3.75cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (4 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Right Mitten

Chain 25 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (24 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.5 inches (6.25cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (24 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 15 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 14th SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work (24 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 3 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 16 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 16 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 15 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 3 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 3 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 15 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 16 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 16 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Rows 21-23: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.25 inch (3cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 24 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (24 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around (18 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat around (12 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog* Repeat around (6 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 8 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (8 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 1.5 inches (3.75cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (4 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Teen/Adult Small Pattern

Left Mitten

Chain 27 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (26 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.5 inches (6.25cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (26 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 4 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 2nd SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work (24 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 16 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 5 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 17 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 17 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 4 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 16 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 5 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 17 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 17 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 21: SC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 22: SC each of the next 17 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 23: SC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each of the next 17 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 25: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.25 inch (3cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 26 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (26 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around, SC each of the next 2 sts (20 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC next stitc* Repeat around, SC each of the next 2 sts (14 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog* Repeat around, SC each of the next 2 sts (8 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 8 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (8 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.5cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (4 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Right Mitten

Chain 27 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (26 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.5 inches (6.25cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (26 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 16 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 15th SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work (24 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 17 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 17 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 16 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 16 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 17 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 17 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 21: SC each of the next 17 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 22: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 23: SC each of the next 17 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 17 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 25: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.25 inch (3cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 26 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (26 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around, SC each of the next 2 sts (20 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC next stitc* Repeat around, SC each of the next 2 sts (14 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog* Repeat around, SC each of the next 2 sts (8 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 8 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (8 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.5cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (4 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Adult Medium Pattern

Left Mitten

Chain 29 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (28 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.75 inches (7cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (28 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 4 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 2nd SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 18 sts, CH1, turn work (28 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 18 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 5 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 4 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 18 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 18 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 5 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 21: SC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 22: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 23: SC each of the next 5 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Rows 25-26: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 27: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.5 inch (3.75cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 28 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Rounds 1&2: SC each stitch around (28 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around (21 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat around (14 total sts)

Round 5: *SC2tog* Repeat around (7 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 10 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (10 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.5cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (5 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Right Mitten

Chain 29 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (28 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.75 inches (7cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (28 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 18 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 17th SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work (28 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 18 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 19 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 19 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 18 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 4 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 4 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 18 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 19 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 19 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 21: SC each of the next 19 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 22: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 23: SC each of the next 19 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Rows 25-26: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 27: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.5 inch (3.75cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 28 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Rounds 1&2: SC each stitch around (28 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around (21 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat around (14 total sts)

Round 5: *SC2tog* Repeat around (7 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 10 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (10 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.5cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (5 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Adult Large Pattern

Left Mitten

Chain 31 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (30 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.75 inches (7cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (30 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 5 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 2nd SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work (28 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 6 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 20 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 6 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 20 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 5 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 19 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 6 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 20 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 6 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 20 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 21: SC each of the next 6 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 22: SC each of the next 20 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 23: SC each of the next 6 sts, C4F Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each of the next 20 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn worl

Rows 25-26: SC each stitch across, CH1 turn work

Row 27: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.5 inch (3.75cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 30 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (30 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 4 sts* Repeat around (25 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 3 sts* Repeat around (20 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around (15 total sts)

Round 5: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat around (10 total sts)

Round 6: *SC2tog* Repeat around (5 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 10 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (10 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 2 inches (5cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (5 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

Right Mitten

Chain 31 using hook one size smaller than the hook you used to achieve gauge

Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook and each chain across, CH2, Turn Work (30 total sts)

Row 2: FPDC first stitch, BPDC next stitch, *FPDC next stitch, BPDC next stitch* Repeat across, CH2, turn work

Repeat Row 2 until your project measures approx. 2.75 inches (7cm) in length from the starting chain edge.

Move to using the hook you achieved gauge with.

Rows 3&4: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work (30 total sts)

Row 5: (Right Side) SC each of the next 19 sts, FPTRC around the Row 3 stitch directly below the 18th SC stitch you just worked, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the next SC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the 5th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the 6th SC stitch after the last FPTRC stitch from Row 3, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work (28 total sts)

Row 6: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 7: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 8: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 9: SC each of the next 20 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 5, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 10: SC each of the next 6 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 11: HDC each of the next 20 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 12: SC each of the next 6 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 13: SC each of the next 19 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC into each of the next 2 sts, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch you reach from Row 11, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 5 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 14: SC each of the next 5 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 2 sts, BPDC each of the next 2 sts, SC each of the next 19 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 15: HDC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 16: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 17: SC each of the next 20 sts, FPTRC around the top of the first post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the second post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the third post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, FPTRC around the top of the fourth post stitch from Row 13, skip the next stitch, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 18: SC each of the next 6 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 19: HDC each of the next 20 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, HDC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 20: SC each of the next 6 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 21: SC each of the next 20 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 22: SC each of the next 6 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 23: SC each of the next 20 sts, C4B Cable Sequence, SC each of the next 6 sts, CH1, turn work

Row 24: SC each of the next 6 sts, BPDC each of the next 4 sts, SC each of the next 20 sts, CH1, turn work

Rows 25-26: SC each stitch across, CH1, turn work

Row 27: SC each stitch across

Fasten off.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Fold your project to seam (with right sides together) along the thumb edge of the hand.  Start your seam along the bottom, ribbed, edge.  At the top of the ribbing, leave a 1.5 inch (3.75cm) opening in the seam for the thumb hole.  Then seam to the top.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Mitten Top

Along the upper edge (the side with no ribbing) of the piece you just seamed into a tube, SC 30 sts evenly around the top.  Slip stitch into the first stitch.  Place stitch marker.

You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (30 total sts)

Round 2: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 4 sts* Repeat around (25 total sts)

Round 3: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 3 sts* Repeat around (20 total sts)

Round 4: *SC2tog, SC each of the next 2 sts* Repeat around (15 total sts)

Round 5: *SC2tog, SC next stitch* Repeat around (10 total sts)

Round 6: *SC2tog* Repeat around (5 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your mitten is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

Thumb

Return to the thumb opening you left when seaming earlier, and SC 10 sts evenly around the opening, slip stitch into the first stitch.  You’ll now be working in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC each stitch around (10 total sts)

Repeat Round 1 until your thumb measures approx. 2 inches (5cm) in length on the upper side.

Round 2: *SC2tog* Repeat around (5 total sts)

Continue to SC2tog until the hole at the top of your thumb is closed.  When you’re down to only 3 or 4 sts, use your yarn or tapestry needle to cinch the hole shut to help avoid a pointy tip.  Secure and weave in all ends.

 

 

This design, a written work and images are a copyright of
©MelodysMakings and may not be copied or reproduced in any way.

You have permission to sell finished products made from this pattern, but please leave a link to my website, www.melodys-makings.com, in your product listing specifying that I am the designer of this pattern.  Thank you for supporting me as a work at home mother!

 

38 Comments On “Jennika Cabled Crochet Mittens Pattern”

  1. Thankfully I have a great relationship with my sister in law that I can talk to
    her about anything even if it’s just to vent and cry over missing my parents and
    grandparents that are deceased and also about missing being back home in upstate NY for the change of the seasons since I moved here to Louisiana in the 1980’s.

  2. I kinda keep it for miself, really. I only speak about my feelings to few persons, and they are really close.
    With them, I have met all: the one that went through all these feelings and understands, the one that listens and the one that doesn’t understand how can one feel depressed.

  3. Bless your heart! Prayers for you for having to deal with this! So glad you reached the point of being able to talk about it friends! I know that was a blessing for you, because its mind boggling the vast number of people that have to deal wit it! So continued prayers for uou and also, if uou dont mind me suggesting this, get a Magnesium supplement and start taking it. Its a miracle how well it helps with depression. The Japanese did a study that found that people who suffered depression had one thing in common…their Magnesium levels were very low in their bodies! I got Thergram-M, an excellent multi-vitamin/mineral and took 2 a day the first 2 weeks and then to 1 a day after that! It made such a great difference for me! I hope you try it! Thats a while lot better than taking anti-depressants. Now manic depression is a different story. Confer with your doctor then! God bless!

    • Thanks for this helpful suggestion Donna! I’ll take a look into the magnesium….I’ve not heard of it as a good supplement for depression before, so I’m definitely interested.

  4. I have always given off the persona of strength, that is the person everyone sees, and has always relied on, the problem solver. To go raw or even show small cracks in the armor would not be useful to anyone. I see so many women who keep diaries of these personal thoughts, their worries, their struggles. If one did, would anyone reading these after you are gone, care?

    • I would argue that going raw and real would be extremely useful to YOU and you can’t take care of those around you at 100% if you aren’t being taken care of first and foremost. Writing down all this stuff is a great way to get it out! I don’t think it’s about anyone reading it after the fact, but more about getting it out of the body.

  5. I understand the battle with depression too well. Mix it up with anxiety and it just gets worse by the day. The other day I realised that I haven’t left the house in 2 months. I can’t go to malls or big shops because I get panic attacks when there is people around me. My poor husband struggles with this because I used to be the outgoing type. Now it just gets worse by the day.

    • Sending love and hugs to you <3 I hope you'll find a couple useful pieces of info here throughout the month!

  6. Thanks for the pattern first of all. I have been depressed since my teens and now turning 55. I’ve never been diagnosed for it. Because first it was kinda taboo bsck then to say you were deprrssed. You woukd get a label attached to you. Last year I had a pulmonary embolism and my world as I knew it came to a crashing halt. Everything changed! Besides almost dying, I became an introvert, more depressed. I have a face I put on for the rest of the world while inside I’m screaming, crying and just want someone to help me. But I don’t know how to ask or who to ask.

    • I’m sending so much love your way! Do you have one trusted person in your life you can chat with regularly? Even having one person you can get real with makes a big difference! And look at you posting so raw and real here….proud of you!!

  7. Thank you for sharing your stories ? they help more then you know !

  8. I share when I feel the Holy Spirit prompting me. I am comfortable sharing but I like to know when. where, what and to whom I do my sharing – so I trust the Holy Spirit for those answers.

  9. Maybe because I am older than you Melody, sharing my “secrets” with anyone other than my counselor gets me labeled as being “negative” and someone who cries all of the time, neither which is the truth.
    I know that some people tend to “project themselves on to others, after all we are all mirrors to each other, so instead of them looking at their issues, they instead label me as the above. In this society most people DON’T want to share or hear of other pain- it brings it in too close to their reality and that’s not acceptable to them. Grief and death are good examples. People feel uncomfortable and thus separate themselves from the source of discomfort.

    I am glad you get a different reaction than I do. It’s good to share, especially face to face. Social media has done a great job of destroying that connection, more times than not.

    • I agree that finding someone you can trust can make the process easier….but I also believe that even though sometimes it makes people uncomfortable and want to move away from us to see this deeper self, many of them find a chance to relate instead <3

  10. I lived with depression most of my life. No one knew of course as it would have been shameful for me to have others know. I used to think the circumstances causing the depression was all my fault. After an abusive childhood I married an abusive man because I didn’t know anything different. Two of my children died, another was on the death bed many times, and another had birth defects that were not life threatening, just time consuming. With two children needing intense care I was exhausted mentally and physically much of the time but always hid it. After all, I was strong and could handle anything. Everyone told me so. I helped others successfully deal with their problems.

    After running a handful of times and being dragged back I was eventually able to get a divorce. Many surgeries, accidents, medication side effects, and being stalked and threatened by my exhusband took a real toll on my mental and physical self. I eventually married a good man who stood by my family through hard times and gave us everything with pure love in his heart. But depression continued to haunt me as more of my childhood memories broke free from my mind’s compartment where I had them hidden.

    I am now a grandmother many times over and depression still overtakes me at times due to PTSD issues. I refuse to let depression stick around though. Talking about the past gives it a name and helps me dispel the abusers. Although I still deal with issues from time to time my abusers have not won. In my job I help others who deal with suicidal ideation and the results of abuse. To have been where they are helps me understand the fears, shame, and nightmares. They are able to see a future for themselves and learn how to choose a partner who is not abusive. The cycle has to be broken in families. Women still need to learn that they are powerful and deserve better.

    Do not let depression take control of your life. Get out of bed. Force yourself to go outside and interact with others. Do something that makes you laugh. Hold your loved ones close. Allow yourself to accept help. Fight back against depression. That’s what I do and I’m a winner.

  11. My sister is the person I can share with. I have not suffered from depression, but having someone to share with who does not judge but just listens always makes me feel better. We both think a great deal alike also.

  12. I do chat with persons that I have trust with which are very unique rare persons and true beauty sure becomes like it should!

  13. Usually I would share my problems with my sister, but she hates my bf, and I feel like we arn’t as close as before. And if I’m afraid she will mock me if I do. So I’ve been shuting up and keeping it between God and myself.

    • Maybe you can let some of it out here throughout the month <3 It's hard when we don't feel like we have someone who can hold the space for us.

  14. The most raw happened after drinks with coworkers, after management excused themselves. It was unusual and protected and only happened once, but I crave more. Unfortunately we can’t do that as it’s the busy season and co-workers mingling is career suicide. But unburdening my extremely guarded self was better than anything I’ve ever tasted or done, and I look forward to stealing a few moments to do it again down the road.

    • Glad you got a taste of the peace that being truly open can bring. Sending love and hopefully more opportunity to you!

  15. I do share with those I trust. I agree with Jana, you have to know who you can share with or you are considered negative. Even some of the people who share with you don’t want to return the favor. When I do find someone I can share with a big weight is off my shoulders even for a little while.

  16. I have no friends that I can speak with. When things hit rock bottom for me everyone turned their back on me so I have written them all off as well. My brother who I adored told me I brought it all on myself. So I get really lonely at times as I have no one to share positive or negative comments with. I do have one daughter who listens but I hate to burden her too much with all my stuff. I think my biggest fear with sharing is that after hearing my story everyone will think I’m too crazy to want to deal with.

    • It’s easy to feel vulnerable when getting open with people….but it’s also quite healing. I’m glad to see you commenting with such openness here! Even writing it out to strangers is a great start on the healing path. Sending more love your way today too!

  17. I was raw with my best friend was what got me the help I needed. She understood because she’s experienced depression and that give me hope. I didn’t tell many people at the time though.

    • Love that you were able to get really open with your best friend, and that she knew how to hold space for you and help you move in the right direction.

  18. I have been raw, and I have found it can be healing, but I do know from experience that not everyone can handle the raw me and that was not pretty and I ended up drawing myself even closer into myself!! I am pretty much a hermit these days, spend time with my grandchildren and my hubby, but otherwise tend to keep to myself!! I do spend a lot of time crocheting, and I will teach myself to knit one day with videos and such to help me along the way!!

    • I am also learning that turning to the right people with our most authentic selves is in itself important. Thanks for this awesome comment.

  19. As a former psychiatric nurse, I can corroborate that some nutrients, like potassium, in deficit can contribute to *profound* depression. Not all depression is nutritional, but a statistically high number of women I cared for did have significantly impaired nutrition, of which they were unaware. Getting it from food is much safer than a potassium supplement, however, as high levels are potentially as deadly as dangerously low levels. It’s hard to get too much through food, but eating primarily from center aisles of prepackaged, self-stable foods at the grocery or avoiding green, veggies (iceberg lettuce doesn’t count, since it’s mostly cellulose & water) can help it fall quickly.

    I take 250mg of magnesium at bedtime several times a week because it makes me drowsy, and I get the best sleep ever. I have not noticed that it has improved the actual depression in my case, but it does allow me to be drowsy enough to fall asleep quickly instead of ruminating for hours in the dark quiet about my failings.

  20. I also have no outlet for thoughts or feelings.

    I lost my friends when my family moved away for my husband’s job for several years. I home school my teens because the frequent & short-notice moving prevents good continuity of their learning. They have made friends at our fantastic library with lots of teen activities, when we settled in a town in our home state, so I could care for my aging & disabled parents. I tried to go back to work, but between my destroyed knees & the crippling anxiety of having to interact with people I never had before, it didn’t last long. My husband resents me for it, even though I take care of all the house, meals, appointments, car maintenance (actual maintenance, not taking it to the shop), budget & bill-paying. I did all of the yard keeping too, until our mower would no longer start.

    I can’t talk to him about how I feel (politics, science & the weather are ok), as he invariably finds a way to turn it on me, invalidating my thoughts, which makes me feel like a bad person.

    I can’t talk to my mother because she can’t wait to tell others, even though I’ve told her how that hurts my feelings that I have no confidence, then gets her feelings hurt that I told her that.

    I’ve taken a couple classes at our amazing library to get out of the house & learn new things (where I learned to knit & crochet this spring), but I haven’t yet made any acquaintances that could develop into friendships.

    Depression is isolating, even more so when you’re truly isolated, so I feel for you.

    • Thanks for openly sharing here, Terra. I’m sending lots of hugs and love to you as I know how difficult it can be to feel alone! Sounds like you’re on to a few of the things that make you feel a little better like those classes at the library. I like that. Self care is important!

  21. Things are starting to look different to me since I’ve started group therapy. It is nice being able to share what’s deep inside of me and to realize there ARE people out there who get it! People who have been where I am now! They REALLY listen to what I’m saying, instead of brushing me off or blaming me for feeling like I do!

  22. Excluding professionals I think the hardest thing is finding someone to be ‘Raw’ with. It’s usually easier to talk to a stranger but how can you be raw if they don’t understand the basis of what your feeling.

    But how do you find someone who can understand?
    It’s a whole bunch of catch 22 until it bubbles up and spews out of your mouth to someone… ☺

    • Haha….isn’t that the truth!? It is really hard to find that one person you can get super deep and real with. But unless we start talking to more people, how do we find the people we can do that with? You’re very right – it takes courage to start the process so we can connect with those most able to understand.

  23. It is not easy to find that one person. Most of my depression has stemmed from trauma of abuse in my ex marriage and the loss of the two people who were my anchor as a child and teen. I found that not always that one person will be who you think it might be, neither the “healthy” nor the one with “depression” who you both thought would be understanding are not the ones, but someone you learn to trust over time and never dreamed would be that one when you met them. The former want you to listen but do not have the patience to really listen back because it doesnt suit them at times being to often. Sometimes it helps to have a surrogate to listen.

  24. Sharing is likely to dilute the pain, as you found, but I usually try to be the one who listens and helps others. Not always the best reaction. It is important to be REAL with others. It helps even to have a prayer partner who will pray anytime you ask — you don’t even have to say what the problem is! God knows. And it helps to know someone cares.

Comments are closed.